Sited at the confluence of the rivers Wos Barat and Wos Timur, the elongated hamlet of Campuhan extends west from Ubud and is noted as the home of Bali's best art gallery, the Neka Museum. There are a couple of other note-worthy sights here too, and Campuhan also makes a good starting-point for a number of walks around Ubud, including the picturesque route to the adjacent and very traditional hamlet of Penestanan. Otherwise, Campuhan comprises little more than a sprinkling of residences sandwiched between the road and the rivers, and a few losmen and hotels. Its one drawback is the ridiculously busy main road that tears through its heart, an unpleasant route for pedestrians. Bemos, however, roar this way too, so you might be better off catching one of these than attempting to walk; take any west-bound bemo from Ubud Market.

THE NEKA MUSEUM

Boasting the most comprehensive collection of traditional and modern Balinese paintings on the island, the Neka Museum is the perfect preface to any stay in the Ubud area, not least for anyone intending to buy paintings from the many art shops in the region. Housed in a series of purpose-built pavilions set high on a hill overlooking the Wos Barat river valley, the museum stands alongside the main Campuhan road.