Four km south of Kuta, Bali narrows into just a sliver of land before bulging out again into the Bukit, a harsh, scrubby, limestone plateau that dangles like football from a thread off the far southern end of the island. Officialy called Bukit Badung (Bukit means hill in bahasa Indonesia), this part of the south has more in common with the infirtile scrub of Nusa Penida accross the water than with the pleasingly lush paddies of the rest of Bali. While its inhospitable terrain leaves most Bukit residents in despair, it's a source of great delight for surfer with some of Bali's best surf break off the craggy shoreline. Real estate developers are starting to get interested too as they toe the government line on targeting only infertile land for tourist projects. This has meant a gradual mushrooming of upmarket hotel complex on the Bukit, particularly in Jimbaran, and a restriction on access to some surfing beaches.

This account of the Bukit follows an anti-clockwise route around the plateau, beginning at the small fishing village of Jimbaran, situated just a couple of kilometers south of the airport on the flat, sandy-soiled isthmus, home to a fine beach and several luxury hotels. Continuing in a southwesterly direction, the road passes a couple of good surf spots before halting Uluwatu. Location not only of some internationally, renowned surf, but also of one of Bali's major cliff-top temples, perched right on the island's far southwestern tip. The road then sweeps around to the southeast to Nusa Dua, a peculiar purpose-built deluxe resort offering superb facilities but distinctly lacking in characters, and its adjacent alter-ego Tanjung Benoa center for water sport location of some cheaper accomodation.

Public transport in Bukit is sporadic at best, and there are several part in which bemos just don't penetrate. It's easy enough to join a tour to Uluwatu from any of the resort, but the best option is to rent your own transport from Kuta, Sanur, Nusa Dua or Tanjung Benoa. Depending on you where yo plan to go, motorbikers are often more practical than jeep for negotiating the pitted and potholed tracks down to the surfing beaches.