One of Bali's most holy and most important temple, Pura Luhur Uluwatu , commands a superb position on the tip of a sheer rocky promontory jutting out over the Indian Ocean, 70m above the foaming surf. Views over the serrated coastline to left and right are stunning, and, not surprisingly, this is the favourite orange horizon. The temple structure itself, though, lacks magnificence, being relatively small and for the most part unadorned , so it's unlikely to hold your attention for much longer than half an hour or so.

Accounts of Uluwatu's early history are vague and shrouded in myth, but it's, fairly certain that two of Bali's most influential holy men palyed significant roles in its evolution. The first was a Hindu priest from Java called Empu Kuturan (sometimes known as Empu Rajakerta) who arrived in the tenth century and constructed meru, multi-tiered thatched shrines, all across southern Bali - including one here at Uluwatu. Six hundred years later, another Hindu priest from Java, Nirartha, landed in west Bali and set about founding some of the island's most awesome sea temples; one at Rambut Siwi and another at Tanah Lot as well as adding to the cliffside shrine at Uluwatu.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu is now sanctifed as one of Bali's sacred directional temples, or Kayangan Jagat - state temples having influence over all the people of Bali, not just the local villagers or ancestors. It is the guardian of the southwest and is dedicated to the spirits of the sea. Its festivals are open to all and during the holy week long period at Galungan, for example, Balinese from all over the island come here to pay their respects.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu stands at the far southwestern tip of the Bukit - and of Bali -18km south of Kuta and 16km west of Nusa Dua. You'd be lucky to find a bedmo from Denpasar or Kuta going all the way to Uluwatu , so your best option is to get a dark blue Tegal (Denpasar) -Kuta-Jimbaran bemo to its Jimbaran terminus and then negotiate a charter to take you on to Uluwatu, expect to pay around Rp5000, one way for this leg. Coming back from Uluwatu is even more of a problem, the cheapest optionis is to try and hitch a ride from the temple car park, otherwise you'll have to rely on an unofficial motorcycle taxi which will be expensive.