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Administratively,
Sanur is included in the city of Denpasar. But
with white sand, coconut trees, and some of
the best international hotels on the whole island
just a few metres away, Sanur was Bali's first
beach resort. Only a few hundred meters inland,
it is a village traditionally run by the brahmins
the priestly caste of Bali.
The Sanur area, the beach front of Denpasar
now extending from Sanur westwards to the Suwung
marshes and Serangan island, is steeped in history.
The Blanjong, written in Sanskrit in 913, is
the oldest inscription of its kind in Bali.
It tells of the founding of a Buddhist monastery.
Other traces of contact with the outside world
persists to this day. The villages of Renon,
on the road to Denpasar, and Semawang, near
Sanur Beach hotel, still host a Baris Cina dance,
with warriors wearing Portuguese-like 16th century
helmets, perhaps the sign of early European
contact.
Tourism in Sanur began in the 30's. Expatriates,
writers and other luminaries had beach bungalows
there. After independence, the Dutch painter
Le Mayeur lived there and gained fame for his
affair with and marriage to Ni Pollock, one
of the best dancers of his day. Le Mayeur's
impressionistic work, while heavily damaged,
can be seen at Le Mayeur Museum near Grand Bali
Beach Hotel. Donald Friend, one of Australia's
great artists, also lived in Sanur until the
60's. Sanur was where the Indonesian government
made its first attempt at mass tourism: the
construction of the Bali Beach bunker, built
using Japanese war reparations. The hotel burned
down in 1993, but has now been restored even
grander than before with the addition of a Bali-style
roof. The Hyatt, built in the 70's is famous
for its garden and lobby, built like a huge
traditional Balinese wantilan.
The charm of Sanur lies in the relative tranquility
of its social scene. It is a resort for families
of visitors wanting the right mix of beach and
Balinese life. It also has the immense advantage
of being much nearer inland tourist spots -
just half an hour from Ubud. Another advantage
of Sanur compared with Kuta is its quieter beach,
making it a favorite walking place.
The main road passes inland, not along the
beach front itself. The beach varies from black
sand in Padang Galak to white sand in the stretch
from Grand Bali Beach to Semawang island. This
island is currently developing into a popular
resort area. It has several attractions for
tourists, most famous being the Pura Sakenan
temple, built in the coral-stone architecture
of the coast. The temple comes to life on Kuningan
day, when thousands of worshippers cross the
narrow strait to pay their respects to Empu
Kuturan, 10th century reformer of Balinese Hinduism.
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