It's tempting to lump Klungkung in the same uninteresting mould as nearly Gianyar, only 16km away. They are both district capitals, both were far grander in ancient times than they are today, and both are on the main east-west road access the island. However, whereas Gianyar is somewhat devoid of sights, Klungkung is a bustling trading town, bursting with things to see. Its highlights are the remains of the royal palace, collectively known as the Taman Gili, which include the ancient Kerta Gosa painted ceiling. These murals are the only surviving examples of classical wayang painting in situ on the island. However, despite major restorations in the 1930s, 1960 and 1982, the pictures are decidedly grubby and the colours very faded. The center of modern day classical -style painting is only a few kilometres south of town, Kamasan, while one of the newest museum on the island, Museum Seni Lukis Klasik Bali, to the west of Klungkung, just beyond Takmung, houses a collection of old classical-style paintings as well as modern works.

SOME HISTORY

Following the Majapahit conquest of Bali under the leadership of Gajah Mada in 1343, the conquerors set up a court in Samprangan, moving in 1400 to Gelgel. From this base Bali was ruled by a dynasty appointed by Gajah Mada, each ruler taking the title Dewa Agung (Great God). When the Majapahit empire in Java collapsed in 1515, large number of Javanese royalty in exile swelled the community in Bali. In 1550, when Batu Renggong became dewa agung, his area of influence increased dramitically and the Gelgel court flourished, becoming a center rule of Batu Renggong's grandson, Dewa Agung Di Made, control of the empire was gradually lost. Towards the end of the seventeenth century, Di Made's son, Gusti Sidemen, moved the palace and the court to Klungkung, believing that the decline of the kingdom was due to a curse upon the Gelgel palace. But it was downhill from then on: Gianyar was established as a separate kingdom in 1667, and the dewa agungs of Klungkung never again reached such influential heights.

The Dutch attacked southern Bali in 1906, and by 1908 had subdued all the kingdoms except Klungkug and Bangli. Gelgel was destroyed, and when the Dutch set up their weapons outside the Semarapura palace in Klungkung on April 28, 1908, the dewa agungs led two hundreds members of his family and court in the wives surrounded his body and stabbed themselves with their kris. The rest of those present were either shot down or killed themselves. The monument opposite the Taman Gili in Klungkung commemorates the Puputan. Surviving members of the Klungkung royal family were then exiled to Lombok and did not return until the 1920s.

THE TOWN

On first arrival, Klungkung can appear rather confusing, especially on public transport, as buses and bemos are forced to complete a wide one-way circuit of the town. Klungkung centers on the crossroads, marked by the dramatic white Kanda Pat Sari statue which guards the four cardinal directions, beside the Taman Gili, with the Puputan Monument opposite, and the market tucked away just to the east, behind the main street.