GIANYAR is the administrative capital of Gianyar district, the second most densely populated district in Bali. Something of atravel hub, it's hard to avoid if you're heading east, but ther's no need to stay long. The coast south of Gianyar consists of mile upon mile of wide curving bays that are still pretty much ignored by tourist and developers because the sand is pure black and the water too treacherous for swimming. It's likely that thing will change once the new coastal road from Pabean to Kusamba is complete, but there are currently few facilities along here and no accommodation. It's peaceful part of the island with fine views across to Nusa Penida and Lembongan, and on clear days the panorama inland, over the paddy-fields and up to the peak of Gunung Agung far in the distance, is the essence of Balinese countryside.

SOME HISTORY

Gianyar was established as a separate kingdom in the late seventeenth century during the next hundred years became one of the most powerful of the southern kingdoms However, in 1883, it was annexed to Klungkung after the ruling raja, Dewa Manggis VII, fell victim to the political machinations of of the far more wily and and experienced politicos of the neighbouring kingdoms. He was interned in the vilage of Satria (3km east of Kluingkung) with his entire family, where he eventually died leaving two sons, the crown prince Dewa Pahang and his younger brother. Dewa Gde Raka. In 1893, they managed to escape from Klungkung and, raising a local army, re-established the Gianyar kingdom over much of the previous area. The neighbouring kingdoms, however, were out for blood, and to save Gianyar from its neighbours, the new raja made a request to the Ducth Recident in Singaraja for Gianyar to be placed under the authority and protection of the Netherlands Indies government. The Ducth agreed, and in March 1900, Gianyar became a Ducth Protectrate. Thus Gianyar was spared the fighting between the Ducth and the other southern Balinese kingdoms during the early years of the century. Instead it thrived and became a centre for the arts. The aristocratic line and lifestyle continued, and in the 1930s the raja of the time drove around in a Fiat with a solid gold garuda radiatorcap.These days the royal family still live in some grandeur in Puri Gianyar but have cermonial and religious rather than political duties.

THE TOWN Gianyar has little to detain you other than its famous spit-roasted suckling pig (babi guling) and showcase endek weaving factories. The most impressive feature of the town is the massive white statue, completed in 1994, on the main road into town from the west, which shows Arjuna in his three-horsed chariot along with his goldly charioteer, Khrisna. After this, the rest of Gianyar feels pretty low-key.

The town centers on the main road just west of the royal palace, Puri Gianyar, first built in 1771 by Dewa Manggis IV, but destroyed by the 1917 earthquake and largely built. Still the home of the descendents of the Gianyar royal family, it is not open to the public, and well-maintained walls, iron gates and no-entry signs ensure you don't wander in by mistake. All you can do is admire from afar the open bales with easy chairs, the statues dotted here and there and an especially fine carved and gilded gateway.

A short walk awat on Jalan Barata, Gianyar's market is a large modern structure comprising two buildings, each three storeys high, with food in one and clothes and household goods in the other. The main market takes place every three days but there are always some stalls here. At the north end of Jalan Barata stands Pura Dalem Teges, flanked by guardian monsters, along with statues of two Western gentlemen, one in a top hat and one in a uniform, both wielding swords. Stone carvers of the past were clearly influenced by Western visitors and you'll spot many examples of such earthly figures accompanying the mythological in the island's temples.