The major tourist draw in the east of Bali, with around a quarter of a million tourists a year, is undoubtedly the Besakih temple complex, the most venerated site in Bali, situated on the slopes of Gunung Agung, the holiest and highest mountain on the island. It's an irresistable combination, and inevitably attracts swarms of attendant hustlers, hassling the daily crowds of bus-trippers. Bus tours start arriving around 10.30am, after which the sheer volume of tourists, traders and self-styled guides make the place pretty unbearable - it's well worth coming early in the morning to get the best of the atmosphere. Besakih the yardstick by which to measure all Balinese temples, but if you have no special interest in them, the stark grandeur of the place will make a lasting impression.

The Besakih complex consists of 22 seperate temples, each with its own name, spread over a site stretching for more than three kilometres. The central temple, the largest on the island, is Pura Penataran Agung, with the other temples ranged at varying distances around it. There is as yet no written guide available at the site, although the Karangasem government tourist offices claims to have one planned.

Unless you are praying or making offerings you are forbidden to enter any of the temples in the complex. Given the vast numbers of tourists that visit, this is understandable but can be frustating, although a lost is visible through the gateways and over walls. A sarong and scarf are not strictly necessary, but you will need them if you are skimpy clothing.

SOME HISTORY

It is likely that Besakih was a site of religious significance long before the start of recorded history; Pura Batu Madeg (Temple of Standing Stone), in the north of the complex, suggests megalithis connections through its ancient terraced structure based around a central stone. However, Besakih's founder id generally believed to be Sri Markendeya, a priest who came from eastern Java at the end of the eigth century with a party settlers. Many of the party became sick and died so the whole group returned to Java to pray for guidance. Sri Markandeya then brought another group to Gunung Agung, this time performing a ceremony, panca datu, to ensure good fortune by burying five metals - silver, gold, bronze, iron and copper - within the foundations of their temple, Pura Basukian. This ceremony still takes place today during the construction of new temples.

Markandeya's son became the first high priest of the temple, attracting priests and successive rulers of the island, many of whom built additional shrines or temples here. Around 913 AD, the ruler of Bali, Kesari Warmadewa, built a palace in the area, enlarged Pura Penataran Agung, and built many smaller temples. An important ceremony was staged here in 1007 AD, widely thought to be the cremation rites of Queen Mahendratta, who was the origin of the Rangda legend. Empu Bharadah, the only man attributed with subduing Rangda, took part and there are shrines dedicated to him throughout the complex.

In 1343, the Majapahit dynasty conquered Bali. Two ancient lontar books indicate the importance of Besakih on the island at this time. It became, in turn, the state temple of the powerful Gelgel and Klungkung courts, and its pre-eminent position on the island was confirmed. The earthquake of 1917 severly damaged the buildings, but repairs were carried out by the Dutch, and in 1932 the road to the temple was completed. Further damage occured in 1963 during the eruption of Gunung Agung, and Besakih again underwent restoration. As a result, the temples in the complex are a vibrant mix of old and new, and fresh building and restoration work continues all the time.