Situated between Gianyar and the massive volcanic formations of the Batur area, Bangli is often passed by in the headlong rush from beach to volcano. Set high enough in the hills to be cool, the administrative capital of Bangli district is a spacious and peaceful market town, with pleanty of temples to keep you busy for a day or two. It fits in well on any itinerary heading to or from Batur, but don't be fooled by its proximity to Besakih: there are no public bemos on the Bangli-Rendang road.

While it was never one of the major Balinese kingdoms, Bangli played a crucial role at pivotal points in Balinese history. Originally set up under the rule of the Majapahit dynasty based in Gelgel, Bangli, along with the other small kingdoms, gradually asserted its independence. By the nineteenth century, all the kingdoms were involved in a complex game of infighting, attempted expansion and intrigue. Gusti Ngurah Made Karangasem, ruler of Buleleng in the north, annexed the entire Batur area from Bangli, and the Bangli raja, Dewa Gde Tangkeban, could only bide his time for revenge.

The main reason most tourists come to Bangli is to see the ancient and much revered Pura Kehen, state temple of Bangli district, 1.5km north of the town. Rising up steeply from the road in terraces kind with religious statues, Pura Kehen is large and imposing - one of the gems among East Bali's temples. Sporting several remarkably fierce Bhoma entrace leads into the outer courtyard containing a massive bunyan tree with a kulkul tower built among the branches. For special festivals, the bells in this tower and in the new kulkul tower at the front are rung simultaneously.

A short walk from Pura Kehen, the rather grand Sasana Budaya Arts Center, one of the largest arts complexes in Bali, is situated in spacious grounds above the main town, and hosts exhibitions and dance and drama performances.

At the opposite end of town, the temple of the dead, Pura Dalem Pengungekan, makes a good focus for a stroll through Bangli. The outside walls depict the fate of souls in hell and heaven as witnessed by Bhima, one of the Pandawa brothers, while trying to retrieve the souls if his parents from hell. The carvings are a riot of knives, torches, pleading victims, flames and decapitated bodies. You'll also see plenty of images of the evil witch Rangda. The new central shrine, detailing stories of Siwa, Ganesh, Uma and Rakshasha, was only completed in 1995.